Primitive Camino - AlanSpeak Travel

Camino de Santiago

The Primitive Camino

Long before the French Route became the dominant path to Santiago, pilgrims were already making their way west along what we now know as the Camino Primitivo — the Original Way.

This is the first Camino de Santiago, the route walked by none other than King Alfonso II the Chaste in the early 9th century. Upon hearing of the miraculous discovery of the Apostle’s remains in what would become Santiago de Compostela, the Asturian monarch left Oviedo to verify the claim himself. His journey set the precedent for centuries of pilgrimage — and established the Primitive Camino as the foundational trail in Jacobean history.

This is where the pilgrimage truly began — and where it continues, quietly, possibly more challenging, but worth every blister.

A Royal Beginning

Alfonso II’s devotion had deep roots. Raised in the rich religious environment of Samos Monastery (Lugo), and influenced by the theological writings of the Beatus of Liébana, the king was one of the earliest champions of the cult of St. James. His act of faith went beyond pilgrimage — he ordered the construction of the first church at the site of the apostle’s remains.

His successor, Alfonso III the Great, followed in his footsteps on two separate pilgrimages and oversaw the consecration of a larger basilica in Santiago in the year 899. These early acts of piety turned the path between Oviedo and Santiago into the spiritual spine of a young Christian Iberia.

From the Capital to the Cathedrals

As the Kingdom of León rose to prominence in the 11th and 12th centuries, attention shifted toward the French Route (Camino Francés), more accessible to pilgrims from across Europe. Royal favour, better infrastructure, and the growing influence of the Cluniac order helped cement its place in pilgrimage tradition.

Even so, the Primitive Camino never vanished. It remained a sacred path for those seeking a more ancient, devout experience. The Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo was — and still is — a spiritual magnet. As the old saying goes: “Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y no al Señor” — “He who goes to Santiago and not to the Saviour visits the servant and not the Lord.”

The Arca Santa, the Shroud of Oviedo, and other revered relics housed in the cathedral drew pilgrims with promises of healing and divine protection. Further along the route, the Cathedral of Lugo also stood out, thanks to its exceptional privilege of displaying the Blessed Sacrament perpetually — day and night.

Architecture and Landscape

Before setting off, take time to explore Oviedo’s Romanesque treasures, including San Julián de los Prados and the pre-Romanesque churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, perched on the green slopes above the city. They’re not just beautiful – they embody the roots of Asturian identity and artistry.

Once on the trail, the landscape does most of the talking. The Primitive Camino leads pilgrims through emerald forests, misty mountains, high plateaus and river valleys. There’s a rawness to it – fewer towns, more solitude, and nature at its unfiltered best. You’ll climb and descend with aching knees and full hearts. This is not an easy camino. But it is one that gives back in abundance.

Fuel for the Journey: Asturias on a Plate

And then there’s the food. In Asturias, they don’t mess about.

This region is a pilgrimage for the palate as much as the soul. Start with a bowl of Caldo Asturiano, a hearty soup of greens and beans — a lighter alternative to the famously rich Fabada Asturiana, but still packed with warmth. For the bold, Fabada is a rite of passage: asturian beans, morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo and pork belly stewed into smoky perfection.

Asturian cheeses are another matter entirely. Locals will cheerfully tell you they have more types of cheese than France, and while the French may take issue, there’s no denying the variety is astounding. Cabrales, sharp and funky, is the star — matured in mountain caves and best paired with strong cider or honey.

And speaking of cider, this is cider country through and through. The iconic sidra natural is poured from height in dramatic fashion, aerating the drink as it hits the glass. Stop off at traditional siderías in places like Tineo or Grandas de Salime for a true taste of Asturian hospitality. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better refreshment after a long day on foot.

Dangerously Good Desserts

If you’re walking the Primitive Camino with one eye on your glucose levels, a word of caution: this is the land of bakeries and pastries.

And at the top of the danger list? Arroz con leche — Asturian creamed rice. Forget your mild-mannered versions from elsewhere. Here, it’s rich, slow-cooked, and topped with what looks like a sprinkling of cinnamon… but often turns out to be a crust of burnt sugar, torched into a full-on brûlée situation. Crunchy, caramelised, slightly smoky — and an absolute menace for anyone with dodgy glucose levels.

Honestly, your own warning — “ideal to send a diabetic into a coma” — was spot on. Cinnamon might be the safer option… but less fun, right?

Into Galicia: Lugo and Beyond

Crossing into Galicia, the mood shifts subtly — greener still, perhaps a bit more humid, and always with the presence of stone: bridges, walls, churches, fountains.

Lugo is a city layered with history. Walk its Roman walls, still fully intact, and take time to explore the majestic Cathedral of Lugo. Inside, the Blessed Sacrament is continuously displayed — a rare honour — drawing pilgrims for centuries. Just around the corner, Lugo Market is a fantastic place to refuel: fresh cheeses, chorizo, empanadas, and local wines await those with the sense (and time) to pause.

From Lugo to Santiago, the Primitive Camino gradually converges with the Camino Francés, but still retains its distinct rhythm. Quiet hamlets like San Román da Retorta and Melide offer moments of reflection — or indulgence, if you fancy trying the legendary pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus), best enjoyed with a glass of local Ribeiro wine.

The Camino Primitivo Today

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, the Camino Primitivo is far more than a footnote to the better-known French Way. Today’s pilgrims come for solitude, authenticity, and the challenge of a wilder, more rugged Camino. The path from Oviedo to Santiago covers approximately 320 km and rewards the effort with breath-taking landscapes, deep forest trails, and centuries-old traditions.

Along the way, walkers pass through charming villages and ancient towns like Grado, Tineo, Pola de Allande, Grandas de Salime, and Lugo — each with its own historic role in the story of pilgrimage. The many ruined and restored pilgrim hospitals that still mark the path are a testament to the route’s enduring importance across the centuries.

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